By Jon Crowley
In 2008, I rode a stock Kawasaki Teryx to the edge of the Grand Canyon with my great friend Rick “Wally” Wallace. That original Grand Canyon UTV run introduced me to Reid Nordin and helped cement our shared love for long-distance UTV adventures.
Eight years later, Reid and I returned to the Arizona Strip to retrace one of Wally’s favorite routes. This time, we started in Mesquite, Nevada, and covered more than 200 off-road miles in a Polaris RZR XP4 Turbo and RZR XP Turbo on our way to Toroweap Overlook.
Remembering Rick “Wally” Wallace
Whether it was a three-day ride from Calico to Laughlin and Primm, a night ride from Las Vegas to Johnson Valley, a run from Mexicali to San José del Cabo or an adventure through Moab, many of us thrived on the trips Wally dreamed up.
Unfortunately, Wally was diagnosed with cancer and passed away in 2015. We celebrated his life after Rally on the Rocks, and I still think about him frequently when I am on the trail. Search #RideForWally on social media and you will see that many other people remember him the same way.
Reid and I became good friends after that first Grand Canyon trip and continued riding together whenever our schedules allowed. He worked for Kawasaki, later joined Walker Evans Racing and then Rugged Radios. We had talked about returning to the Grand Canyon for years, but it was difficult to find the right time.
That finally changed when Reid planned to be in Las Vegas for the Mint 400 and I was heading to Glamis for our annual Industry Ride. We added a few days to our schedules and made the Grand Canyon trip happen. I picked up my son at the Las Vegas airport, while Reid’s wife, Jill, brought their truck and RZR to meet him in Las Vegas.
Planning Our Return to Toroweap
On our first trip, we camped in tents at Toroweap. We also discovered Bar 10 Ranch, which became Wally’s preferred place to stay when he brought friends into the region. On another trip, I was fortunate enough to bring my son along as we traveled off-road to Bar 10 Ranch and then spent seven days rafting through the Grand Canyon.
Reid and I hoped to stay at Bar 10 Ranch on this trip, but it had not opened for the season. We decided to rough it and camp at Toroweap, just as we had on the original adventure. The CasaBlanca Resort and Casino in Mesquite became our starting point.
I was driving my Polaris RZR XP4 Turbo, while Reid used the Walker Evans Racing RZR XP Turbo. The four-seat XP4 chassis works especially well for overnight trips because its rear seats can be removed to create considerable storage space. Its longer wheelbase also handles fast desert roads well when carrying camping gear and supplies.
I had recently installed a trusty Lowrance Baja 540c and spent time creating waypoints that would help us recreate Wally’s preferred route into Toroweap. The Baja 540c was one of Wally’s favorite GPS units, so I imagined he was smiling while I prepared for the trip.
Mesquite to Lime Kiln Canyon
From Mesquite, we followed Road 242 through Lime Kiln Canyon and toward Grand Canyon–Parashant National Monument. This portion of the ride quickly leaves developed areas behind and enters the remote desert of the Arizona Strip.
At the intersection of roads 242, 101, 1041 and 1027, we continued straight onto Road 1027.
At the intersection of roads 1027, 1033 and 1003, we turned onto Road 1003 and continued through Hidden Canyon.
Mount Trumbull Schoolhouse
Our route continued onto Road 1018, skirting the south side of Poverty Mountain before reaching the historic Mount Trumbull Schoolhouse. Along the way, we crossed one of the area’s striking Joshua tree forests.
We stopped for lunch at the Mount Trumbull Schoolhouse. The schoolhouse sits near the junction of roads 5, 1018 and 1045, approximately 60 miles from St. George. Road 1045 leads toward Bar 10 Ranch, while Road 5 connects the area with St. George and continues east toward Mount Trumbull and Toroweap.
From the schoolhouse, we followed Road 5 east through Mount Trumbull. The elevation change brought us out of the desert and into a pine forest before the route descended toward Tuweep and the Grand Canyon.
Entering Tuweep and Toroweap
At the end of Road 5, we turned south onto Road 115. This road enters Grand Canyon National Park in the Tuweep area and eventually reaches Toroweap Overlook.
We expected to camp at Toroweap, but discovered that overnight camping required an advance reservation. We could not locate a ranger and knew the park’s day-use area closed shortly after sunset, so we continued to the overlook and planned to reassess the situation there.
We finally reached the end of the road at Toroweap, unloaded and walked to the canyon’s edge. Toroweap Overlook rises roughly 3,000 vertical feet above the Colorado River, producing one of the Grand Canyon’s most dramatic views.
The uncrowded, rustic and extremely remote setting was exactly the type of destination Wally loved. Reaching it after approximately 100 miles in a UTV made the experience even more meaningful.
Standing on the edge of the Grand Canyon again and thinking about Wally was an emotional experience. Sharing the moment with my son, Reid and Jill made it even more special.
The Long Ride Back to Mesquite
After taking in the view, we decided not to risk remaining in the camping area without the required permit. We packed the RZRs and headed back toward Mesquite.
When we reached the Mount Trumbull Schoolhouse, we chose a different return route. Reid had explored the area with Google Earth and created a route that took us onto some interesting—and occasionally questionable—roads.
After encountering several sketchy sections and watching the sun drop lower, I took the lead and directed us toward Road 101, which eventually reconnected with Road 242.
By then, we had traveled more than 200 off-road miles and were ready to finish the ride. I entered one corner too quickly and drove the XP4 off the edge of the road. Thankfully, there were no large rocks or steep cliffs in our path, and the RZR XP4 absorbed the mistake without damage.
It was a reminder to slow down and remain focused near the end of a long day. Fatigue can become a serious factor during an extended backcountry ride, especially after dark.
Thanks to Reid and Jill for another unforgettable adventure. Let’s keep them coming. #RideForWally
See more details about the vehicle in our Polaris RZR XP4 Turbo build.
Planning a UTV Trip to Toroweap Today
The story above describes our March 2016 trip. Permit requirements, vehicle rules, road designations and access conditions have changed since then. Always verify current regulations before attempting this route.
Tuweep and Toroweap are among the most remote destinations in Grand Canyon National Park. Current National Park Service rules require each vehicle or motorcycle entering Tuweep to have either a Tuweep day-use permit or be covered by a valid backcountry permit. Overnight camping at Tuweep Campground also requires an advance backcountry permit.
Review the current National Park Service Tuweep information and obtain any necessary reservations through Recreation.gov before leaving home.
Requirements may include vehicle registration, insurance, a valid license plate, an Arizona off-highway vehicle decal and compliance with park noise restrictions. Motorized travel must remain on designated roads, and operating a vehicle on muddy roads is prohibited.
For additional destinations, route ideas and updated planning guidance, see our comprehensive North Rim of the Grand Canyon Ride Spot.
About Grand Canyon–Parashant National Monument
Grand Canyon–Parashant National Monument covers approximately one million remote acres along the northwestern edge of the Grand Canyon. The monument is jointly managed by the National Park Service and Bureau of Land Management.
There are no paved roads within the monument. Access is available by dirt road from Nevada, Utah and Arizona, but road conditions can change dramatically with weather. Elevations range from the Mojave Desert near 2,000 feet to forested peaks approaching 8,000 feet.
The landscape includes creosote desert, Joshua tree forests, pinyon-juniper woodlands, sagebrush, red-rock country, ponderosa pine and aspen. This variety makes the region spectacular, but it also exposes travelers to major temperature and weather changes during a single trip.
The roads are generally marked, but many routes may not appear on older maps. Obtain the current BLM Arizona Strip Visitor Map and consult the Grand Canyon–Parashant National Monument information page for current conditions.
Common Routes to Toroweap
- From Arizona State Route 389: Turn south approximately nine miles west of Fredonia and follow County Road 109, County Road 5 and County Road 115 toward Tuweep.
- From Colorado City: Follow County Road 5 toward Mount Trumbull and continue south on County Road 115.
- From St. George: Use BLM Road 1069 and County Road 5 through the Mount Trumbull area before turning onto County Road 115.
- From Mesquite: The route described in this trip report crosses remote backcountry through Lime Kiln Canyon and Grand Canyon–Parashant National Monument. It is considerably more involved than the primary approaches.
Road numbers, legal access and surface conditions can change. Do not rely solely on this historical route description for navigation.
Arizona Strip Backcountry Safety
The Arizona Strip is remote and largely undeveloped. There are no fuel stations, repair facilities or dependable services along these routes. Cell service is limited or nonexistent across much of the region.
- Carry more fuel and drinking water than you expect to need.
- Bring food, tools, recovery equipment and properly sized spare tires.
- Download offline maps and carry a current printed map as a backup.
- Use a satellite communicator or personal locator beacon.
- Check weather and road conditions immediately before departure.
- Avoid the area when rain or snow could turn its clay roads into impassable mud.
- Leave a detailed route and expected return time with someone at home.
- Stay on designated roads and respect all closures and private property.
- Do not count on another traveler arriving if you break down.
For maps and current local information, contact the BLM Arizona Strip District’s Public Lands Information Center in St. George before beginning the trip.
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