Editor’s note: This firsthand trip report was originally published in February 2012. It has been edited for clarity while preserving the original experience, vehicles and riding conditions. Dune formations, landmarks and access rules can change. Check current Siuslaw National Forest alerts and maps before riding.
As we rolled out of camp and headed toward the dune entrance across the road, I was simply glad to be back in the sand. The weather was rough, but it was still going to be a good day to ride.
I checked my seat belt and located the passenger grab handles in Jason’s Can-Am Commander 1000 X. I would be riding shotgun while he dealt with whatever the winter weather had done to Winchester Bay.
Winter Storms Transformed the Sand
We crossed the road and entered the familiar, heavily whooped access route. When the trail opened into the first large expanse of dunes, it became obvious that recent storms—some reportedly producing winds approaching 100 mph—had dramatically changed the terrain.
The sand was wet, soft and choppy. It felt almost fluffy despite being saturated by rain.
Our group gathered near Banshee Hill, where a driver in a Polaris RZR XP 900 equipped with paddle tires made the first attempt. He had to slow near the trees because several ATVs were descending. When he tried to accelerate again, the RZR threw a large roost but barely moved.
As he backed down, the steep dune began pulling the vehicle sideways toward the hill. He carefully worked his way around until he was pointed in a safer direction.
Trying to Climb Banshee Hill
Jason accelerated the Commander toward the bottom of the hill. Our approach felt good, and I expected us to reach the top.
Just before the trees, however, the engine began to bog. As we entered the steeper section, it felt as if the Commander had driven into a bank of wet cotton. Our momentum disappeared while the tires launched heavy clumps of sand into the air.
Several other side-by-sides tried the climb with similar results. A couple of ATVs made their own runs, and even their engines could be heard struggling in the same section.
We tried again and traveled approximately 20 feet farther before losing momentum. After backing down, we turned southeast and continued deeper into the dunes.
Razorbacks, Fog and Hidden Kickers
The heavily traveled sections were wet and rough. Along the top of one dune, we could see razorbacks, irregular humps and hardened sand projections on the leeward side. None of them were features a rider would want to encounter at speed without first inspecting the landing.
We reached a drop leading into a valley near Buttercup and the backside of Banshee Hill. Several members of the group ran a downhill-and-uphill loop, finishing their passes with jumps as the rain intensified.
Jason dropped into the valley and followed a narrow trail toward Buttercup. About halfway up, we encountered thick coastal fog.
“Good time to turn around,” he said.
I agreed. Visibility had deteriorated so quickly that I initially thought my goggles were simply fogging.
Traction Varied Across the Dunes
After climbing out of the valley, we continued south toward a large three-quarter bowl and made several good high marks. The sand in this area did not feel as loose, and the Commander maintained good traction without breaking away—even while traversing a steep sidehill.
We then approached another large climb and reached the crest before the wet sand finally stopped us. Another vehicle came over the top to our left, covering us with wet roost as it passed. Judging by the amount of sand it threw, it was probably running paddle tires.
We backed down, made a small adjustment to the Commander’s Muzzys DigiTune fuel controller and tried again. This time, we crested the hill without difficulty.
The backside presented another challenge. Storms had created sharp drops, kicker humps and double kickers across the dune faces. The lower flats contained standing water, deep ruts and rough transitions.
I had spent considerable time riding the Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area, but I had never encountered Winchester Bay in conditions quite like these.
A Mechanical Problem in the Rain
The rain eventually became heavy enough to interfere with visibility, so we began working our way back toward camp.
Along the way, we spotted someone pulling out a tow strap and stopped to see what had happened. Our volunteer camera operator had accidentally knocked the vehicle’s exposed air filter loose. His jacket was then pulled into the intake, and the engine became flooded badly enough that it would not restart.
Another vehicle was already prepared to tow him, so we continued toward camp.
The return trip across the flats and smaller dunes provided one final fast run. Jason avoided several water hazards that appeared with little warning and guided the Commander through trails on the west side of the riding area. Their banked corners were fast and entertaining, although the straight sections were badly whooped.
We made one last run before reaching the entrance road. Back at camp, we could finally appreciate how thoroughly soaked—and covered in wet sand—we had become.
Lessons From a Storm-Altered Dune System
The riding conditions were far from ideal, but the trip was a valuable reminder that coastal dunes are constantly changing. Wind and rain can reshape familiar terrain, build new razorbacks, expose sharp transitions and create misleadingly soft sections capable of stopping even powerful UTVs.
Conditions found on one side of a dune may also be completely different from those on the other. A smooth approach can hide a sharp drop, kicker or water-filled depression beyond the crest.
- Inspect unfamiliar dune faces and landings before riding them aggressively.
- Slow down when fog or rain reduces visibility.
- Do not assume a familiar climb has the same shape it had during an earlier trip.
- Watch for standing water and deep ruts across low areas.
- Protect exposed intake components and check the air filter after riding in severe conditions.
- Give other vehicles room near steep climbs and blind crests.
Winchester Bay remains an unforgettable place to ride, but this winter trip demonstrated why dune terrain must always be treated as dynamic and unpredictable.
Important access note: Some landmarks mentioned in this historical report may now be restricted or closed. Before visiting, review current Forest Service orders, riding maps and alerts for the Winchester Bay/Umpqua Dunes area. UTV Guide is also following the broader Oregon Dunes access dispute.
More Winchester Bay Coverage
Special thanks to Jason, Save the Riders Dunes, Discovery Point Resort and the GOONS in the DUNES riding group.
